Wednesday, March 19, 2014


By Lynda Castonguay

World MasterCard Fashion Week - Day 1

LINE Knitwear Fall/Winter 2014 (Photo by George Pimentel / Getty Images)


5....4....3....2....VAWK !

Worlds collided at VAWK’s presentation of his fall winter collection “1,001 Nights”. Designer Sunny Fong teetered on the edges of both classical and modern and by tasting and co-mingling the two elements, he created something edgy with modesty all peppered with some 90’s funk and a taste of Dubai. To the opening beat of Balkan Beat Box, Mr. Fong gave us a runway of simple lines, midi and asymmetrical skirts, and peekaboo dresses all in luxurious, quality - to the eye and I’m sure to the touch - fabrics.

It was an almost all black collection, but on closer inspection some of the black was not so black, but rather, a rich barely visible chocolate brown - this actually solidified the collection for me as one of my favourite.

Photos by George Pimentel / Getty Images (Click to enlarge)

Classical was in the modest skirt lengths. It was in the svelte contouring. It was in the full sleeved dresses, and the simplicity of all the lines. Modern was in the fabrics, the leathers and the rugged textures. It was the peekaboo cut outs. It was in the metallic. It was in the contrast sleeves. It turned up the strongest in fabric twists and pinches such as the neckline of a fitted floor length dress, or more excitingly, around the neckline of a fall jacket. It instantly added drama to a place on a garment that then draws you up to see the fierceness in the model’s eyes.

Dubai spoke quietly in the cap sleeves, the sequined banding on the rising and falling hem of a black sheer overlay atop a short skirted dress; and that style in and of itself, was culturally inspired as the floor length baby doll swayed across the runway.

This collection was sultry as it was quiet. It was luxurious as it was rugged. It was loose as it was body conscious. In its entirety, and with the music he had accompany the ladies, the mood was mysterious, dark, delicious and provocative. 


Photos by George Pimentel / Getty Images

Beaufille had me at… Beaufille. There is nothing quite like a French title to grab my attention. Their collection, though, is what kept that attention.

The sister designers were said to have looked at uniform, unity and code in clothing as well as gangs and tribes. It all began with a moto jacket and skirt set in an autumn rust high reflecting fabric. Contouring the pockets were these bronze hook-n-eye hardware. My first thought: rich. My second thought: hard knock.

What followed kept that momentum up – a black embroidered fitted pant suit, wrap blouses and three quarter sleeved midi dresses in sultry reds, a soft mid-night-sky navy pant suit with a hinge like pattern along the length of the arms. Another unique design vertically ran the length and center front of fitted pants and matching blouse – perhaps the collection’s own gang insignia? Then, there was a sporty tank dress in a scaly animal texture (faux or real, my eyes cannot tell). There were loosely draped dresses in a butterfly explosion pattern, dangling necklaces followed suit and snake skin patterned low chunky heeled shoes to tie it all together.

LINE Knitwear

Photos by George Pimentel / Getty Images

You want to start a show on the right foot, do it like LINE Knitwear did with their head to toe fuchsia number – midi skirt, below the hip lace blouse and a housecoat jacket with a large shawl collar. That’s how it’s done.

Designers John Muscat and Jennifer Wells looked to mama nature’s textures and colour palette for this collection and what resulted was a beautiful bouquet of her gifts – lustful calf hair and fuzzy angora in pale mint, purples and pinks only seen in a mid-summer’s night, blues as dark as the sea and as vibrant as a neon light, and whites as soft as winter fur.

There was a knee length dress in a bouncy knit with rubble texture, capped off with a floor length housecoat jacket, both in a darker fuchsia. A lace skirt in a debris of black and purple with a center back zipper garnered the attention of many. A bubble gum pink zipper coat was also a show stealer as well as the fitted dark red-brown leather midi skirt with a fuzzy angora top to match. 

The collection was a spectrum of contrasting colours and textures and that is expected, really, of mother nature and all her glory. Blessed are the various beauties that surround us and Muscat and Wells took them both literally and abstractly to create this wise, simple, fun, energizing, timid and strong fall /winter collection.

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