Saturday, March 22, 2014


By Lynda Castonguay

World MasterCard Fashion Week – Day 2

Melissa Nepton Fall/Winter 2014 (Photo by George Pimentel / Getty Images)

Mercedes Benz Startup

In short, Mercedes Benz and IMG are the loveable and generous grandfathers of fashion weeks, and in this particular case, they take emerging Canadian designers under their wings and nourish them with their knowledge and power. 

Today’s mentorees: Matiere Noire and Malorie Urbanovitch. While it seems like they are positioned against one another, both have such a different aesthetic, that they are in leagues of their own, untouchable by the other. This program is one of encouragement, anyways, so differing creative minds aside, this is a journey of support. So is this presentation.

First up, Matiere Noire – French for black matter. The music set everyone in silence with these intense, extra-terrestrial sounds, almost like callings from the mothership. The introductory video was futuristic. The music was also. This was the fashion hunger games. 

Photos by George Pimentel / Getty Images (Click to enlarge)

All in all, it was a battleful collection. It was austere and strict. No if’s, and’s or but’s. No being finicky. It was functional in blacks, dark greys, some metallic and the odd electric blue. It was straight forward with combat Aztec belts on boxy dresses, dropped shoulders, a full moon print on squared sweaters, and asymmetrical skirts with a combat feel. Some of that addictive electric blue showed up in an extended sleeve knee length vest? Dress? You can call it what it is. It had two black rectangular patches keeping the front opening shut. Velcro or not, again, this proved the easy, no fuss, no muss attitude of this collection.

Malorie Urbanovitch

Photos by George Pimentel / Getty Images

Opposite of the coin was Malorie’s uber soft and snuggled down collection of earth and sky tones and this intriguing pale yellow green. A robin’s egg blue sleeved dress with waist pinches was mythical and the tubed knit sweaters called out to the winter crowd. The collection was shy of patterns, with the exception of an off white and beige wide belted plaid. Everything else was colour blocked accordingly. 

The collection did ooze some academic elements especially when styled with knee highs and shoulder strap book bags. It was astute, quiet and safe but with some contemporary twists to make it speak louder - such as the asymmetrical pinning of the skirt seams and the use of lustrous fabrics.

After all was said and done and both designers showcased, it was revealed that this program would run for another three years. Best of luck to the bold designers to come.

Melissa Nepton

Photos by George Pimentel / Getty Images

I tweeted the designer after the show saying that she was my favourite and I stand by my word. I have an eclectic sense of personal style but I always love putting together even more unconventional outfits for fun and photography and she had a few looks that were very editorial.

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Over all, the collection was a contradiction of sorts - it was strong and soft, boyish and ladylike. Attention was put on the fabrics and just how well they would compliment one another, which they did.

The collection was retro meets warrior, meets biker chick, meets city sexy, meets bohemian chic - a real melting pot of interpretations. A gold and black metallic embossed fabric turned up as a strapless mini skirted dress, in skinny pants and also in an oversized sweatshirt wrapped sportily around the model’s waist.

Triangles took shape in the webbed print on a jumpsuit, halter blouse and long billowy palazzo shorts. Ms. Nepton brought waistbands back in hefty proportions as seen on the opening number. You heard it here first, folks!

David Dixon

Photos by George Pimentel / Getty Images

This last minute showing of David Dixon’s bridal collection for Kleinfeld’s was inspired by love. Now, that just sounds silly doesn’t it - sounds like I am stating the obvious. But Mr. Dixon was more specific than that - than this all encompassing notion of love. He looked to the Corinthian’s passage on love as a reflection tool and what resulted was a wide spectrum of looks for the unconventional bride on her conventional big day. 

Pale pink chiffons sashayed across the runway so too did the stark and off whites. There were too main focuses in this collection - a pink jump suit with a light asymmetrical peplum that ran into the side seam, and, a structured off white number whose also structured peplum ran into the side seams. 

Brides come in every colour, size and attitudes and he worked with this difference which is why we saw a gamut of looks - never the same but always created for the same purpose... for her to say to the dress!


Video courtesy of WMCFW / Available in full screen mode

More from World MasterCard Fashion Week: DAY 1

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